It was pretty cool, knowing I was above the Lion's Head looking down. I was standing in a spot that seemed remote, even inaccessible, from the town the night before.
Early on, I passed a fellow about my age who was doing a short three-night trip. I spent a bit of time at the Lion's Head Pothole, marveling at the sheer power and artistry of the glaciers; a lone woman hiker passed me here and called out a greeting. I saw no-one else until I arrived at the wilderness camp at McKay's Harbour. Here, above the camp, I happened upon two mountain bikers. They were, of course, walking their bikes, and I knew they would continue to do so until they were down at ground level at Lion's Head; the terrain was much too rocky.
On the south side of the peninsula it got rockier yet, and took me a fair length of time to get through. The views off the sheer, unguarded cliffs were magnificent; I'm sure I could see the CN Tower! I watched cormorants on a rock below, spreading their wings to dry.
The terrain changed as I drew closer to the hamlet of Barrow Bay. It became much less rocky, and easier underfoot. I passed a young fellow with his dog who, he informed me, was named Eve. They were out for a run and were hoping to make it around the Lion's Head peninsula. He was quite astonished to discover he'd only made it halfway up the bottom side, but set out again with renewed vigour. I didn't have the heart to tell him about the rocks that awaited him.
I had previously arranged with a local couple to camp in their front yard on this evening. There were no accommodation facilities of any kind in this area, and when my research had discovered a now-defunct bed-and-breakfast, I threw myself at the owners' mercy. They very graciously went along with the camping idea, until I arrived that evening. When I hobbled up to their front door, they basically threw it open wide, taking me in and giving me a bed for the night. It was very much appreciated and I shall always remember their kindness.
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